GET TO KNOW YOUR SKIN

Skin ageing is a very complex, multi-factorial process, continuously researched by scientists.  The results of skin ageing are abnormal changes to the cells and tissues of the skin and lower skin layers (Epidermis and Dermis).  Changes in Dermis (lower skin layer) make a much greater contribution to the overall appearance of the skin, though skin ageing is also apparent in Epidermis.

Sun exposure is responsible of almost 90% of premature skin ageing usually referred to as photoaging (all external factors responsible for skin ageing are referred as “extrinsic” ageing in contrast to normal skin ageing, referred also as “intrinsic” ageing).  Photo damaging starts early in life and has a cumulative activity.  UV radiation is without doubt the single major factor responsible for skin ageing.

The main clinical signs of photoaging are changes/irregular pigmentation, swollenness, deep wrinkles dryness, skin atrophy, skin roughness, laxity, telangiectasias, and premalignant lesions.  These changes appear on the sun exposed areas of our body, such as face, neck, upper chest, hands and forearms.  These changes are more visible when we compare people working outdoors (farmers, sailors, sunbathers, outdoor activities) and people working indoors.

In contrast, normal skin ageing (also known as “intrinsic” ageing) is characterised mainly by fine wrinkles, laxity, seborrheic keratosis (Not increased pigmentation and deep wrinkles that characterise photoaging).

UV radiation of sun light absorbed by skin, damages the DNA and generates some harmful substances (called Reactive Oxygen Species) that eventually decrease the number of fibroblasts, reduce the synthesis of elastin, and increase the breakdown of collagen and the formation of deep wrinkles.

Retinol+ effectively reverses photo damages generated by sunlight, which are responsible for the formation of deep wrinkles up to 90%.

Increased life expectancy and modern life-style (entertainment, summer vacations, etc.) are factors contributing to the appearance of skin ageing. Tobacco smoke, environmental pollution, malnutrition, alcohol consumption also contribute to premature skin ageing and wrinkles.

Genetic factors determine to some extent the early or late appearance of skin ageing. But, almost 90% of skin ageing is due to sun induced skin damages (Photoaging) and more specifically by UV radiation.

The main proposed mechanism of photo damage is the deleterious effect of UV radiation to the DNA by Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), i.e. free radicals that are produced by UV damaged cells (oxidative cell metabolism). Free radicals damage the skin’s DNA, lipids and proteins, including Collagen. Collagen is responsible for skin’s integrity, firmness and elasticity. Damaging collagen leads to premature skin-ageing and the formation of wrinkles.

Sex hormones deficiency such as estrogen and progesterone (e.g. menopause) and testosterone cause skin dryness, wrinkles, epidermal atrophy, collagen breakdown and loss of elasticity.

Repetitive face movements may promote the appearance of wrinkles e.g. around the eyes -“crows feet”-, forehead, around the mouth, between eyebrows etc.

Sun Avoidance
Best practice is to avoid as much as possible exposure to sunlight (UVA and UVB radiation). More importantly, avoid sun exposure between 10:00 – 16:00 (midday) when sunlight is most intense. Avoid sunbathing and sun tanning beds which accelerate photoaging (“There is no such thing as a healthy tan”!).

Sunscreens
Use sunscreens when you are exposed to sunlight. Sunscreens efficacy is defined by their Sun Protection Factor (SPF). Use good quality sunscreens with an SPF of 15 or higher and apply frequently (every 2-3 hours) to all exposed body parts.

Take into consideration that SPF rating only confers protection against UVB and NOT against UVA. UVA blockers are nowadays available. Total blockers (such as Titanium dioxide and Zinc oxide) which are physical blockers or newer organic filters cover both UVA and UVB radiation spectrum.

Clothing
Consider wearing a hat, long sleeved, light coloured clothing of suitable materials that block UV radiation and allow the body to breathe.

Expression wrinkles are a particular type of wrinkles linked to repeated muscular contractions and they usually appear as soon as the age of 30.

Typical expression wrinkles appear especially in the top half of the face: crows feet, horizontal frown lines (forehead), glabella lines etc.

Expression lines (temporary wrinkles) form in the skin during muscle contraction and disappear when facial muscles relax, providing the human face with its unique ability to express emotions.

Certain intrinsic and extrinsic factors such as age, UV exposure, hormonal changes, smoking, accelerate the rate of wrinkling.

Muscle contraction during everyday facial expression, forces the skin to fold repetitively along the same groove. With time (several years), this repeated mechanical stress causes that groove or ″temporary wrinkle″ to etch in as a permanent wrinkle. To explain this phenomenon the theory of ″the old glove″ model for wrinkle formation has been proposed.

″Smooth when new, the fabric develops grooves at sites of long-sustained stress″.

It has been scientifically determined that temporary wrinkles formed by facial expressions eventually evolve into permanent wrinkles.

Therefore, those who form more wrinkles due to facial expression at any given age will tend to form more wrinkles that are permanent at a later age following each person’s unique pattern.

One of the main concerns amongst the majority of the population is avoiding the first and visible signs of aging.

Individuals wish to maintain their youthful looks and appearance as long as possible.

Expression wrinkles are a particular type linked to repeated muscular contractions and the first usually as soon as at the age of 30.

Attenuating the muscle contraction is the most reliable approach to delay the appearance of expression wrinkles as much as possible. This can be achieved either by using topical actives in the form of cosmetic topical products or neurotoxins in the form of injectable products.

Neurotoxins such as Botulinium toxin type A (Botox ®) works by stopping your muscles from contracting which stops your skin from moving. Of course, these are temporary treatments and need to be repeated every 3-4 months.

On the other hand, cosmetic actives such as Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, which are the most recent cosmeceutical peptides, are safe, cheaper and milder alternatives to Botulinium Toxin, targeting the same wrinkle-formation mechanism in a very different way. In addition, unlike the injected alternatives, Argireline® is easily absorbed into the skin using topical products making it a much easier product to use at home. Lastly, Expression Wrinkles Reducer product is cost effective.

While cumulative sun exposure is considered to play the most important role in the progression of facial wrinkling, the role facial expressions play such as smiling and frowning, on facial wrinkles have been overlooked until recently.

Anytime you make a facial expression, whether you smile or frown, movement is caused in underlying facial muscles, which will form a groove or a line perpendicular to the movement.  These wrinkles can be either temporary (expression lines) or persistent (permanent wrinkles).

Expression lines form in the skin during muscle contraction and disappear when the facial muscles relax providing the human face with its unique ability to express emotions.

On the other hand, persistent wrinkles are visible even when the muscles are at rest and do not contract.

Your unique pattern of expression lines will predict the pattern of your potential persistent wrinkles along with other factors such as age, UV exposure, and skin type etc. All these factors influence the rate of facial wrinkling.

The question that arises is should you stop smiling in order to prevent wrinkles?

The answer is NO, because by suppressing a smile it also means suppressing emotions that express and possibly enhance your well-being.

In addition, in order to prevent wrinkling you would not only have to suppress smiling but also virtually every facial expression.  This would leave you looking emotionless and might even affect your ability to feel emotions.